October 26, 2004

The Kitchen Coach

Kefir, fil mjolk and viili

Rebecca Wood

A delicious and fuss-free way to build immunity, inhibit cancer, soothe the nervous system, and support energy is with a daily glass of kefir. You can purchase this fermented milk beverage ready-to-drink or you can culture it at home. It's as easy to make as a cup of tea. It's creamy, tangy and imparts a "feel good" sensation. Unlike health insurance, kefir supports prevention.

Though less well known and researched, fil mjolk or viili may do the same. But let's first look at kefir. This lightly effervescent treat originated in the Caucasus mountains, where it's still widely consumed and accredited as a longevity aid. You can purchase kefir ready to drink from natural food stores. Or, for a superior culture, you can buy traditional starter grains and ferment your own. Making your own kefir is satisfying and economical and guarantees you the most healthful drink possible. And you can make it from any milk, be it low or full fat, raw or pasteurized, dry or wet, cow or goat. Soymilk kefir works ok, while kefir made from almond or coconut milk is a sensory treat.

Kefir is in a different class of ferments than live-cultured yogurt When made from a grain starter, kefir literally colonizes your gut, whereas yogurt's bacteria are transient. Kefir contains major strains of friendly bacteria and beneficial yeasts not commonly found in yogurt. Its dynamic mixture of various organisms is self-sustaining from generation to generation, while yogurt weakens with each batch you make.

Traditional kefir works as a remedy for anyone with digestive disorders. It's an excellent source of protein, calcium, magnesium, biotin and vitamins B1, B12 and K. It's also an abundant source of tryptophan, the "relaxant" amino acid.

For the fun of it, you may also wish to try the less well known cultured milk beverages - fil mjolk (also known as piima) and viili. Like kefir, these Scandinavian cultures originated in cold climes and ferment at ambient room temperature.

Fil mjolk is as hardy and versatile as kefir but, unlike traditional kefir, it doesn't need straining. I appreciate its one-step process, its tart taste and that when made with whipping cream or half 'n half it yields a wondrous "crème fraiche".

I made viili a few times but then let the culture slip into oblivion. Although its flavor was pleasurable, I didn't take to its texture which can be imagined from the following story. A friend poured a cup of viili and unintentionally filled it a drop over the brim. The ringing phone distracted him and, upon return, he found an empty cup in a thick puddle of viili. The overfull drop had oozed down the cup's side and, like a slinky, had emptied it.

Kefir is my passion. Because traditional kefir grains multiply, I've enjoyed sharing the starter with many friends. I make a batch once a week from goat's milk and daily enjoy a glass - sometimes two. I also use kefir (or fil mjolk) as a buttermilk substitute in baked goods or, I further separate out their whey to make a soft cheese.

Making your own kefir is so easy, here are instructions a 5-year old could follow. Purchase a plain, unflavored kefir beverage that contains living cultures from your natural food store or a dried kefir starter packet available on line from various sources including www.lifeway.net Fill a jar two-thirds full of goat's or cow's milk. Top off the jar with the prepared liquid kefir or add the starter packet contents, stir once and loosely cover. Let it stand out on your counter for 24 to 48 hours and occasionally give it a stir. After a day its flavor will be mildly tart. If you let it ferment longer, the kefir coagulates and becomes bubbly and more tart. Drink it at the flavor stage you enjoy and refrigerate the rest. It's that easy.

If you're new to culturing milk, making your first batch may take a leap of faith. But, you can do it. Just consider the fermented foods that you may already enjoy - sourdough bread, chocolate, beer, coffee, tea, dill pickles and pepperoni. Give home culturing a try. And here's your safety net: culturing makes a food taste better. Should a fermented food smell or taste bad, it's probably bad, so toss it.

To purchase kefir grains and fil mjolk or viili starters contact www.gemcultures.com. G.E.M. Cultures, 30301 Sherwood Road, Fort Bragg, CA 95437

Or, find a kefir aficionados willing to share grains by visiting the on-line kefir chat group at http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Kefir_making

For a comprehensive kefir web page visit http://users.chariot.net.au/~dna/kefirpage.html, or simply enter "dom kefir" in your search engine.

Local author Rebecca Wood is a Personal Chef and offers individual Kitchen Coaching. Her book, The Splendid Grain, won both Julia Child and James Beard Cookbook Awards. You may reach Rebecca or visit her many recipes and articles, at www.rwood.com